Notes from the Field
 Kaminaljuyú Sculpture Project, Guatemala

Today most of the staff was not working at the museum; ergo Zuli and Victoria were not there. So, I spent the day with the archaeologists, doing my own work and listening to music. Later, we went to a cervicheria near our house and it was really good! I’d like to go back there sometime.

Today the entire day was spent at the National Museum working with Zulia Loarca on learning about the system used by the museum to keep inventory of the textile collection. I saw the database that they use to keep track of all the information, which is very far from being finished. I also learned that they will be changing out the museum textile exhibit. They are also working on an exhibit at the National Palace that needs to be completed by next Friday. I hope to go with Victoria and Zuli to the National Palace on Monday when they go to work on the exhibit. Oh, we also celebrated Travis’s birthday tonight at home with a cookies-and-cream cake.

Today I spent the day back at the Popol Vuh again because the mold and the mildew from the day before at the National Museum basement affected my sinuses. I did more of my own work and learned more about the archaeological work that Lori, Travis and Bart are doing. Travis also taught me how to use the Nikon D200 and how to work with the flash to get just the right amount of light for the object and the conditions.

On Wednesday part of my day was spent at the National Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography. There, after being introduced to the people who work there and shown around, I began working with a master textile conservator named Maria Victoria Ajmac who is in charge of preserving the textile collection of the National Museum. I spent the day working with and learning from her as she took me around the whole museum and explained to me (completely in Spanish!) the meaning and significance of the Maya beliefs and how they are manifested in the textiles. I enjoy learning more from people than I do from reading textbooks, I learn better if I’m doing rather than reading about other people doing things.

Today was spent at the Popol Vuh Museum doing more scanning. However, I was able to visit the Ix Chel and see their entire textile exhibit. The museum is quite large from the outside but the exhibit itself is fairly small because most of the lower half of the building is used for storing and preserving textiles. The exhibit began with a video that generally explained the weaving process and its significance. The information about the pieces had English translations, so it was easy for me to read and learn the material. I went through the entire exhibit in about an hour-and-a-half reading about and looking at the magnificent displays and marveling at the skill it must take to weave these pieces.

Today was our first day at the Popol Vuh Museum. Although there aren’t textiles there for me to study, the Ix Chel Museum directly adjacent to it is dedicated to Maya textile history and preservation. I attempted to go there, but realized that I would need a ticket and decided to wait. Instead, I watched Travis, Lori and Bart do their work. I also decided to keep a photo/video documentation of all the work that is being done. All of today’s scanning procedures were in the bodega which was fun to watch. Although I’m not an archaeologist, I understand the technique behind the scanning and can appreciate the idea behind it.

With Travis and Bart handling the scanner and Lori working on the scans themselves at her laptop, the entire procedure is tedious and obviously requires a lot of care and patience (especially if you screw up!). I have to say that I definitely wouldn’t have the patience to do this kind of work. I watched them, did some of my own work and took many, many picture of everything going on around me.

On Sunday we took the day to go to Antigua and a few surrounding villages. We went to the villages of Santa Maria de Jesus and Aguas Calientes which are located around the Agua volcano. We walked through the marketplace and Travis pointed out the people of the various villages who were there by the design of their huipils. I still want to learn how to do that, how to look at a textile piece and identify where it’s from. Antigua was great; the town is small but extremely diverse and active. The added benefit of the good weather made the day even better. We shopped for souvenirs after lunch; I bought woven bags for my friends and hope to buy more things when we go back. I especially enjoyed watching the people. To me it seems that we are all the same; visiting with friends, kids from different towns playing together, people selling their goods to earn a living. It’s easy to see only the differences in economic conditions and overlook the commonalities; this distraction seems to be an affliction of the wealthy mainly. I think it’s important to take note of the dissimilarities but focus on the similarities as well.

Today we arrived at Guatemala and immediately took note of the weather. To me, the cool, rainy yet sunny day is what surprised me the most about the country. I don’t know whether that’s good or bad; as an anthropologist shouldn’t my primary impression be some astute observation about the people and culture? Oh well, I guess the cold-blooded Floridian in me won out over the anthropologist in me.---And this self-analysis seems to show the psychologist in me.

As Travis and Lori picked Bart and I up from the airport (which was a delightfully hassle-free experience!) and drove us to the house I noticed the similarities between Guatemala City and cities I have visited in the U.S. Typical American to compare everything in another country to the way we are in the States. Although I unconsciously make these comparisons, I make no value judgment about what I’m seeing. It’s simply an observation at this point. I have to admit that nothing seemed too shockingly different to me; I don’t necessarily feel too much out of my element here. We do stick out, however. And I don’t mind the term “gringo” as it is used here.

Our house is fairly large considering where we are. I was surprised at how quickly we seemed to adjust to our new temporary home and the surrounding environment. We were moving freely and expertly through the house finding our way and using the technology not realizing yet that modern appliances are not standard in Guatemala until Travis mentioned how out-of-place it all is.

Later we took a small tour of La Zona Viva and had dinner there. ---Rather, I should say, we had dinner at one restaurant and dessert at another, at a restaurant called Frida’s. Guatemalan’s seem to have an affinity towards Frida Kahlo’s life and works and especially seem to appreciate her unique feminism.

I have to say that due to a lack of patience and required discipline, I have always been unable to keep a diary or a journal. That, and also the fact that as a kid, girls were almost expected to write in “diaries”, not “journals”, but diaries, and I formed a stigma against it along with many other gender specific roles. So, forgive me if my journal entries seem hurried at times or my writing seems distracted for whatever reason. I tend to run more of a stream of consciousness rather than an eloquent piece of formal writing. Enough for this entry!